Saturday, September 14, 2019

Our first few days in San Miguel de Allende


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We arrived in San Miguel de Allende (SMA), Mexico on Thursday, September 5, 2019, but it still hasn’t sunk in that we actually live here now.  Our furniture, rather badly beaten up by the various movers, is here along with the rest of our belongings and we are unpacking as fast as we can.  Buying a refrigerator and washer and dryer was an adventure of its own since our rental house is brand new and didn’t have those appliances.  It is not uncommon in Mexico for homes to not have major appliances.

Well, the appliances were delivered and it turns out that the refrigerator will not fit through the door to the maid’s room which we are using as a pantry.  The kitchen has a closed-in space for a refrigerator, but it is tiny.  We wanted a bigger unit but it never occurred to us that we needed to measure the doorway.  We sent the fridge back and returned to the store where we bought it.  The very nice salesman refunded our money and then helped us find an equally good unit that WILL fit.  Thank goodness.

Here are a few observations based on about 10 days of being in Mexico:

Driving – Many of the highways have two lanes with wide paved shoulders.  Generally, you drive at least half way on the shoulder so cars coming from behind you can pass.  You also have to move over so that cars coming at you can pass vehicles on their side of the road.  Sometimes there are four vehicles abreast on the two-lane road.  Exciting.

In our small city of SMA, there are no stop lights or stop signs.  There are roundabouts, called gloriettas, which offer more excitement.  This may change due to the building boom and big increase in population recently.  There has been an announcement that there will be traffic lights installed around various places on the outskirts of the city

Don’t believe the GPS about speed limits.  The GPS said the limit was 110 kph when the road signs said 60.  Trying not to call attention to ourselves in order to avoid policemen looking for mordida (bribes), we tried sticking to the posted limits, but we were the only vehicle doing so.  We gave up and just tried to stay with the traffic flow.

The GPS and Google Maps were useless in trying to get around in Queretaro, the closest big city, a little over an hour away on one of those two-lane highways.  We drove around totally lost for a very long time before finally getting to our destinations of Home Depot and Costco.  Then we ended up buying our appliances in SMA at the local department store.

Food – Wonderful fruit and vegetables, fresh and inexpensive.  It is necessary to disinfect everything because of possible contamination from natural fertilizers and often less than sanitary transportation and handling.  Even the locals disinfect everything.  The restaurants in town are very good about sanitizing everything and we have had no tummy troubles so far.

Water – You can’t drink tap water.  It has large amounts of fluoride and arsenic due to the lowering of the water table and the need to drill deeper and deeper.  Lots of agricultural use has depleted the aquifers.  Even though we would rather not use bottled water, it is the only choice.

Security – SMA has traditionally been one of the safest places in Mexico with no cartel activity and relative low crime rates. That has changed in the last 6 months or so, most likely since the national government cracked down on the rampant theft of gasoline from Pemex, the national gas company.  Whole communities in the area made a living by tapping into pipelines, stealing the gas, then selling it to service stations and others.  With that source of income dried up, people have turned to other types of crime including home robberies, muggings and extortion of businesses.  The national government sent in troops and things seem to have settled down a bit, but we are glad our house has an alarm system. Although our community is not gated, there is a private security force which patrols at night.  We hope that will be sufficient to protect us. 

Dogs – Many people keep large, unfriendly dogs for security purposes.  As we walk around our neighborhood, we hear them barking and growling behind walls and gates.  They are also on rooftops since houses are connected and a burglar could go from one house to another.  There are also a lot of unsupervised dogs on the loose.  On our way here from Laredo, we stopped to get some coffee and give our little doggie a break.  The moment we let her out of the car, she was attacked by a big, vicious dog. It tried to get her throat, but I kicked it as hard as I could and it backed off.  Dog attacks are not uncommon, unfortunately.

More observations later.

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